Videgård's Selected Recipe from Mexico

Restaurant owner Erik Videgård has written several acclaimed cookbooks focusing on various food cultures and cuisines around the world: Mexico, Vietnam, and soon Sichuan. In this three-part series, we explore one food culture at a time through his books. First up is Mexico, where Videgård selects a recipe that captures the country's ingredients, flavors, and culinary philosophy in the best way possible. Buen provecho! 

Chilaquiles – Tortilla and Mushroom Stew

"A wonderful breakfast where the base is yesterday's tortillas, fried crispy and mixed with salsa that can be green or red depending on what you have in the fridge. Do you have some leftover chicken? Toss it in. Some eggs? Fry them up and place on top."

12 tortillas
1 liter canola oil, for frying
Salt
1 tbsp olive oil
225 g fresh shiitake mushrooms, halved if large
1 batch salsa borracha

Borracha
4 pasilla chiles, seeds removed
4 garlic cloves, unpeeled
8 tomatillos, husked
50 g white onion, finely chopped
1.2 dl apple cider vinegar
1 tbsp salt
1 tbsp sugar
2 tbsp mezcal

Toast the chiles until they start to smell without burning. Immediately place them in ice-cold water and let sit for 1 hour until softened. Toast the garlic in the pan, remove and set aside. Toast the tomatillos until they start to sizzle and get black spots, set aside. Grind the chiles to a smooth paste. Peel and add the garlic, continue grinding to a paste. Chop the tomatillos and add them to the chili and garlic mixture, lightly mash. Add onion, vinegar, salt, sugar, and mezcal, mix with a spoon. 

FOR SERVING
30 g queso fresco or mild feta cheese, crumbled
4 tbsp cream or sour cream
50 g white onion, thinly sliced
30 coriander leaves

Instructions:
Cut the tortillas into 2 cm strips, then into squares. Fry in canola oil at 160 °C until crispy, about 2 minutes. Drain on paper towels and season with salt. Sauté the mushrooms in olive oil in a frying pan, season with salt, add the salsa and bring to a boil, then add the tortilla chips and toss. Serve on a platter and top with queso fresco, cream, onion, and coriander.

What makes Mexican cuisine so fascinating?

– The immense richness of flavors and freshness of the ingredients, which absolutely don't have to be the most expensive on the shelf. Mexican cuisine can be likened to the Southern Italian "Cucina povera," where the whole ingredient is utilized and nothing is wasted. Add to this an explosion of flavors, salsas, and a genuine love for food that is enjoyed with family and friends.

What is your strongest food memory from Mexico?

– After fainting during a very hot hike in the mountains, I was able to rest at a mezcal distillery. The scent of grilling started to waft through the air, and I saw that lunch was on its way. I got to help with the food, and when the more heat-resistant participants returned, we were 20 people sharing a wonderful goat stew with freshly made tortillas and a decidedly generous amount of mezcal. We sat on the roof of the distillery overlooking the mountains, talking about food and experiences for several hours. Magical!

What ingredients do I need to have at home as a beginner to succeed with Mexican cuisine?

– Besides our usual pantry staples, it's great to have Masa Harina so you can make authentic corn tortillas; the flavor is drastically different from the bland ones found in stores. Also, try making your salsas from scratch with high-quality whole chili. Fresh lime is of course essential, but otherwise, your pantry should be able to handle most dishes.